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Las 3 micro-perlas Sefaradíes

Por David Benhamú Jiménez

Benhamu, Benguigui, Benarroch, Benchimol, Azancot, Amselem, …son algunos de los apellidos que conservan los judíos sefaradíes. Algunos muy populares en Israel, y otros apenas, siguen siendo los predominantes en las comunidades judías de España, en especial desde Madrid hasta el sur. En Israel a veces piensan que todos los judíos salieron de España durante la reconquista de Isabel y Fernando y que nunca más volvieron a España. Afortunadamente, y aunque se traten en la actualidad de apenas unos 40.000, que forman parte de los 47 millones de habitantes del país, las comunidades judías españolas se encuentran muy cohesionadas, y es raro que algunos de sus miembros no se conozcan entre ellos, sobre todos los que viven en la misma ciudad. Llama la atención las tres micro-comunidades de Ceuta, Melilla, y Gibraltar, todas de origen sefardí, y donde a pesar de no contar entre las tres con más de 3.500 miembros, sus reducidas dimensiones hacen que la densidad de judíos por metro cuadrado sea considerable. Disponen de todos los servicios, de un colegio de diario en el caso de Melilla y Gibraltar, y de un amor incondicional hacia la religión y las costumbres de casi todos sus miembros, y también al resto de ciudadanos. Su entorno multicultural las hace únicas y dignas de conocer, ya que además de sol y playa, fiesta, cultura, y buen acceso, nos permiten observar cómo viven otras comunidades judías en el mundo y apreciar qué es un autentico sefardí en el termino explicito.

La mayoría de los israelíes siguen eligiendo a Barcelona como primera destinación en España, otros completan su viaje con una visita relámpago a Toledo, y los más aventureros o aquellos que contratan un paquete especial del antiguo reino de Al-Andalus se someten a los encantos de Córdoba, Granada y Sevilla, de su historia y de su presente. La alternativa en esta región son las playas de Tarifa y Caños de Meca, y el lujo despampanante y los casinos de Puerto Banús en Marbella.

Solo a una hora de Marbella, se encuentra Gibraltar, un enclave británico en la península ibérica. Un lugar donde el primer idioma es el inglés y la moneda oficial la libra inglesa, pero donde no tendremos problemas para desenvolvernos en español o utilizar euros. Es habitual como no lo es en España ver por la calle a hebreos, como se denominan a si mismo los judíos sefardíes. Una parte importante de la comunidad provino en su mayoría del norte de Marruecos en diferentes etapas, en especial durante la década de la independencia del país africano en los 50. Además del llanito, una mezcla del español e inglés incomprensible para los forasteros como nosotros, hablan restos de la haketia, el judeo-español occidental de los judíos expulsados de España, el español y RP English, el inglés estándar de la BBC. Además de los monos, sí los monos, que están en un peñón y a veces sueltos por la ciudad, si contactamos con la comunidad con determinada antelación podremos tratar de organizar un tour para aprender más sobre su interesante historia y la de su comunidad judía.

BARRIO HEBREO1920-Archivo General de MelillaA solo 15 minutos de Gibraltar se encuentra el puerto de Algeciras, Al-Jazira en árabe, puerta entre África y Europa, y desde donde salen de manera frecuente embarcaciones a la ciudad española en el norte de África, Ceuta. La travesía es de unos 45 minutos, ya que se tratan de unos 14,5 kms. Nada más llegar notaremos al igual que en Melilla, el Art Decó, el modernismo, el exotismo, la multiculturalidad, el militarismo, el olor del mar y como en Gibraltar una comunidad importante de judíos en la zona en comparación al resto de España. En ambas ciudades, se puede caminar para llegar a cualquier lugar, y apreciar el puro estilo sefardí. A menos de una hora de Ceuta se encuentran Tetuán y Tánger, ciudades en Marruecos que albergaron a comunidades judías de más de 15.000 miembros en la época de esplendor y de las que tan solo quedan 4 ancianos en Tetuán y 36 en Tánger. Aun así, el patrimonio judío es abismal, el mellach, los mikve, cementerios, casinos, sinagogas donde todavía es posible rezar si conseguimos reunir al minian y contactamos con la comunidad. La comunidad de Marruecos es muy tolerante con los judíos y hasta en el pueblo más recóndito siempre nos reciben con los brazos abiertos. Es sabido el gran aprecio que la comunidad judía tiene al rey Mohamed VI, y a su padre, y a su abuelo. Se puede pasar a Marruecos sin problemas a través de la frontera peatonal de Ceuta. Antes de seguir el viaje a Melilla por Marruecos, podrán hospedarse en el complejo lujoso Marina Smir en la afueras de Tetuán, donde se rodó parte de la famosa y reciente serie española de espionaje en la España de Franco contra los Nazis ambientada en la zona y basada en el libro de María Dueñas, El tiempo entre costuras.

Desde Tetuán a Melilla podrán desplazarse en taxi, por un precio asequible en unas 4 horas, y hacer una parada a  mitad de camino en las maravillosas playas de El Jebha, no lejos de Al-Houcema. Para aquellos que quieran llegar a Melilla y que no tengan tiempo de por Marruecos, pueden hacerlo desde Málaga, Madrid y Valencia directamente en avión o en barco desde Málaga, Almería y Granada.

Melilla es sin duda la ciudad española más africana, ya que son al menos 8 horas en barco o 40 minutos en avión lo que la separan de la península, casi 230 kms. Hermana gemela de Ceuta, pero con un encanto diferente, y la primera ciudad española en cuanto a patrimonio judío sefaradí y unas características arquitectónicas ejemplares. Solo con visitar la parte vieja de la ciudad ya merece la pena venir a la ciudad, y si además coordinan su llegada con la Asociación Mem Guimel, la Comunidad judía, o el Ayuntamiento, podrán descubrir todos los encantos e historia de la comunidad hebrea de la ciudad.

Muchas de estas comunidades se están viendo reducidas por diferentes causas, como la crisis, cuestiones religiosas, y otros factores, sobre todo en las dos ciudades africanas, la falta a veces de oportunidades laborales o económicas… Sin embargo, sus encantos, singularidades, precios asequibles e importante patrimonio sefardí nos hacen de ellas 3 ciudades de obligado paso, que además nos permitirán conocer no solo la belleza sino también a las comunidades hebreas descritas que prosiguen muy activas en su día a día y que os recibirán con los brazos abiertos.

Una de las tradiciones gastronómicas más especiales de los judíos sefardíes es la adafina, «ada, costumbre», así que costumbre fina, pero que comúnmente llamamos dafina. Créanme, que el que prueba una dafina no la olvida en su vida. Muchas de las costumbres sefardíes se están perdiendo, quizás se debería decir que muchas costumbres en las religiones o civilizaciones se están perdiendo entre otros piensan por el uso excesivo de las nuevas tecnologías. Sin embargo, el judío sefardí, sí que está realmente en periodo de extinción, en especial si tomamos como sefardí al denominado estrictamente como judío del norte de Marruecos o de este origen, repartidos principalmente en la actualidad en las ciudades mencionadas además de entre otras como Málaga, Madrid, Barcelona, Lisboa, Caracas, zonas de Brasil y e Israel. Sin embargo, en Israel se toma el concepto amplio de sefardí, quizás por confusión sefaradí al tener el mismo nombre que el país España, Sfarad, siendo sefaradim, todo lo que suene a español, tanto de España como de Sudamérica.

En relación a los judíos sefardíes que hicieron aliah, que emigraron a Israel, el número de los mismos es relativamente reducido, aunque se pueden encontrar comunidades en Ashdod, Ber Sheva, Natania, Beit Shean, y por supuesto Tel Aviv y Jerusalén, donde han llegado en los últimos 5 años casi 2.000 olim chadashim, nuevos inmigrantes de todas las edades, aumentando la tasa de aliah con respecto al lustro anterior en un 280%.

Israel premia y se enriquece de la cultura que los judíos traen de otros países. Son muchas las universidades e instituciones israelíes que ponen especial atención a la cultura judía en otras regiones del mundo y cómo dichas diferencias culturales evolucionan al llegar a Israel. Es común por ejemplo ver como en Israel, los sefardíes en numerosas bodas siguen la costumbre de lucir el traje de berberisca y la hena, la mimona, las galletitas sosas, etc., la mayoría costumbres provenientes de Marruecos, país al cual los judíos respetan y adoran.

Dicen que el conocimiento de otras culturas nos hace más inteligentes, nos ayuda a valorar nuestra propia cultura, y nos permite vivir en otros mundos. Por ello, invito a todos aquellos que lean este artículo a que planeen su próximo viaje al sur de España, pero al sur, sur…y para aquellos que están ya en la zona a moverse un poco.

Autor: David Benhamú Jiménez              Fecha: 27.07.2014

Para comentarios, preguntas o sugerencias escribir a David Benhamú Jiménez a:

dbenhamujimenez@outlook.com – También en Facebook: David Benhamú Jiménez

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